Letter #080: Fitted t-shirts, low rise pants and the perfect black clutch
Also in this letter: the best TRR deals are in the Jil Sander tab
Three things I know for sure about what’s coming for us style-wise, but first: an easily replicable, trans-seasonal outfit that has been sitting in my screenshots folder since the beginning of August.
All you need is a lightweight black jacket and pants, a navy tunic/blue button down (seems essential that it’s silk), sleek sunglasses and the key man really is the gold ring (make it big and a little masculine, but wear it on your feminine finger — side note: did you know the Elsa Peretti bone cuff comes as a ring too?) and chain bracelet (dainty but weighty; let it roll up and down your arm). White/clear flip flops for shoes (my spin). It’s perfect outfit weather, ppl!
Onwards to the the things:
We’re wearing long things over pants again. But this time they feel a bit more whimsical, like the crochet details that were present over the sheer (organza?) pants at Khaite.
Or the tunics at 6397. Not long, but the peplums over balloon pants at Alaia riff on the idea too.
Speaking of Alaia, which seemed like, no q, theeeee show of the season…I wasn’t there but often say that part of why I suspect editors take the shows in Europe more seriously has something to do with the lenses through which they choose to see the shows. What’s good to know is that it doesn’t actually matter where the show’s taking place. From what I’ve seen and heard all the gravitas was there, and when a brand has the kind of gravitas that Mulier has cultivated (no doubt a function of how he was raised in the industry w Raf Simons and Matthieu Blazy), anything goes. But of course, the setting (The Guggenheim!) helped.
As far as the style notes/most important note: viva low rise everything (I’m bullish on these pants). The shape was also evident at Tory Burch, Sandy Liang, Khaite, Palomo Spain and probably a milli other places I’m missing. That’s it, ppl, our waist bands are rolling down. So good for our asses, not as great for our guts but the best way to configure this forthcoming tendency is, in my opinion, with a top that swings like this from Skall or this from Ciao Lucia. Also good with a boxy knit or blazer.
Speaking of which, the shape of blazers is changing too — they’re getting shorter and smaller and feeling good single breast. Sometimes fashion really does feel like a painting in progress to the extent that the shapes often change in harmony to accommodate each other. (In this instance, a short boxy blazer really does look great with a pair of low rise straight leg pants. Think cargos.)
Fluid underthings are still the thing. Remember last September when Tory Burch showed all those delicate mini skirts styled under structured tops and jackets? More of that this season in various permutations — there was one gorgeous mid length skirt at Kallmeyer on Wednesday morning that negotiated a good deal for those among us who are less hot on exposing the whole of their legs. (You can get this right with a skirt like this, styled with a simple, medium weight knit.)
So that’s that. Other looks from the season that have provoked a creative jolt:
Elsewhere on the shoppable internet
You’ll find:
Max Mara joining scarf life with a pair of wool, felt pants.
Still Here’s brown suede “cool pant” — low rise and ideal for an unexpected top pairing (a, b; think the above Phillip Lim look, but maybe more practical). I’d add flip flops to style them with now or a pair of malleable/very casual shoes for later. There’s a corresponding brown shirt if that appeals to you (and you own a pair of silver jeans to wear it with).
Speaking of jeans: Brie Welch influenced me and I just got these. Wearing them with naked shoes (on sale!) and a crew neck (can’t recommend this sweater from Cos enough).
Re: t-shirts and the broader concept of changing shapes, they’re not safe either. Leset just introduced a slim fit to their Margo family, it’s still shrunken but now it’s more fitted, less boxy. I really like Sessei’s 90s tee too. With the right low rise cargo pants (are you picking up on the one-track of my style mind?) and a hair iron put to good use, the vibe can be full Rachel Green.
Maryam Nassir Zadeh’s collab with Ba&sh launched on Wednesday. The cover girl is Jessica Stam and there is a lot of leopard print, but my favorite pieces are the open back tank and Ninna bag.
Another good collab if you have that fall loafer itch: Grenson (the English shoemaker who makes the fisherman shoes that often appear in this NL) x Emilia Wickstead.
And while we’re on accessories, this clutch from Soeur —
There’s also a version like this It is exactly the right leather stiffness, shine and overall sense of refinement to polish off a more languid look.
This sequined bubble skirt from Belle the Label; look how cool she is, wearing it as a collar!
But no q the launch I’m most excited for is still forthcoming, from Yael Aflalo (who founded Ref). Her new brand is called Aflalo and I’ve had the pleasure of observing its construction and weighing in as she’s been in design mode. The stuff is really good — think ideally shaped, lengthed and colored cashmere knits, overcoats tailored to feel like they were measured on your body and jackets in the most insane fabrics, like melting butter to the touch. Tons of delight and surprises in too, mostly in the form of: sheer dresses, butt ruffles, sparkle tulip shapes and this one leopard print collarless coat. This launch is slated for later this month. I will keep you posted.
Second-hand Jil
Finally, the parade of good Jil I found hanging out on TRR. If you really wanted, you could probably cobble together an entire wardrobe system with it.