Spring jacket season, baby!!!

What are the components that make a spring coat good?

Pilosule duster styled over a simple white tank top with a comb necklace (the leather chord is what matters because it anchors the look given that the pants (Massimo Dutti) are so delicate. B-Low the Belt belt (statement buckle era is near) and The Row sandals from a few years ago styled with sheer stocking socks. I am seriously considering these

A traditional trench coat

• Practically speaking, you want to be able to layer (volatile weather), so the right amount of roominess is essential. So is the jacket’s weight. You probably don’t want to look like you’re wearing a single ply sheet of tissue paper over a massive roll of Bounty (Leset’s Kyoto is a good example of something light enough to wear into the summer but not too light for over a sweater, esp if you are planning to sandwich with something over it, like this). Less likely to join you into the summer is a weighty cotton that reads almost like denim, stiff enough to really cloak you, but still fluid —

Rohe leather bomber (comes in white too), Massimo Dutti crinkled nylon trench, TWP oxblood nylon duster, Massimo Dutti red cotton trench, Alex Mill nylon windbreaker

Everlane khaki anorak, Massimo Dutti suede drawstring jacket and peacoat, Toteme suede shirt jacket, Leset ‘Kyoto’ coat. This is also important

It’s a better option for the current moment though. Just doesn’t maintain the same kind of longevity.

A better look at some of the elements

A traditional trench coat (khaki, heavy weight cotton) tends to serve as the best foil to spring dressing because it acts like a top coat, either grounding a look comprised of many different, sometimes whimsical fabrics, or pulling it together if there are different colors at play.

The michelin of trench coats — truly — from Kallmeyer styled with a slinky top from the same brand, H&M cargo shorts, an EENK purple silk shirt (the idea is to blend one off color with another,; Dries is a master of this, even when its subtle) and metallic sandals

• Stylistically, the ideal is for the coat to be versatile enough to pair with the range — dresses (long, mid, short), shorts (mid, short), jeans (wtvr). I opt for something long when I’m thinking in these terms especially given that I mostly wear straight or skinny leg pants. (Less competing silhouettes.)

• On the topic of silhouettes, I absolutely love the cropped sleeve on the above black trench from Kallmeyer — there is such a femininity about exposing your wrist in a look, no matter how simple the broader look is.

An unexpected fabric

• When you are after something more fantastical, the whimsy brought forward in something like this crinkled trench, or this satin one [see also: this], yields a look that is still functional but does encourage more festive dressing —

I have been working on these abs all winter. Here is an alt for the coat (from Donni), bra and pants. If you like the flavor of the look but are absolutely not trying to omit a shirt, a simple tank top is the answer. Or you can meet somewhere in the middle. Then you’ll want a classic (slightly wider) leather belt to ground the look and tie back to whatever utilitarian, everyday sandals you wear.

Needed socks, but it got worn. TWP nylon trench, Mango body suit, Dries georgette pants, Khaite sandals

Leather

• Because I can feel too much like I’m playing by the rules in a leather jacket with jeans, I might pick up something like this, for weirdification that still works in a variety of scenarios.

  • Least not one that includes these pants.

• For a softer approach to leather, it’s probably about something like this. I love suede. It ages gracefully and gleefully and I don’t think it’s going to go away. It also gives you permission to wear a shirt as a jacket because its heavy enough to hold its own (and you)

Toteme shirt, Kule v-neck t-shirt, Souer x Cafe Leandra white cotton voile pants, Gucci boots (these from Simkhai could be next Fall’s hit)

• (I would gently nudge you towards a shade that reads more tan or yellow or even brown than it does TOBACCO for maximum spring color pairing efficacy. It bounces off color so beautifully.)

Toteme suede shirt, Mango body suit, Aureum gold buckle belt, Magda Butrym shorts (would consider trying these too), Altuzarra slingbacks. If I were to eliminate the tights, I’d want to wear a pair of sandals like these

I won’t go too hard on length of coat recommendation because it really depends on the rest of your wardrobe. Shorter coats are better for wider leg (mid rise) pants but if you’re mostly in straight or skinny pants, or short things — dresses, skirts, shorts, wtvr, I’d suggest something longer. This is really practical. And the color is right —

Nylon

But then again, if we’re going to talk color, and stay focused on red, maybe you’ll want to consider Aflalo’s red anorak. To style over a look you don’t have to think about, like a shirt and jeans. (The red compliments basic colors like white, khaki, light blue with enough character that you don’t feel so boring.)

I feel a little boring. Aflalo anorak and jeans, TWP ‘Big Joe’ shirt, Khaite beaded sandals with sheer socks

But the length of it also lends itself to wearing very tiny things underneath without feeling too exposed, or to create casual balance on an evening look —

As styled here with a metal mesh muscle tee from TWP, Emi Mess bermuda shorts (try these from Cos) and more Row beach thongs (these are definitely the more elegant choice, but there are plenty of other great options, least not those that are prob in your closet. The original Bottega spiral sandal is on my mind lately)

Re: necklace, here’s where my mind goes lately, but this has a nice Cartier vibe about it

If you’re done with red, the selection of blue jackets avail feels alive these days. This anorak for example, while not that practical (because it wears over head) is such a great shade of Saved-by-the-Bell turquoise (seen on the Kallmeyer top too).

The other two jackets I’m thinking about are 1, 2 from Alex Mill (more royal in hue); with an emphasis on 1.

We’re either post-peak field jacket or such a status does not exist because of the function and ubiquity. If you want to get one, you should — it’s a great foil to clothes that are less expected than a pair of jeans and a t-shirt. A mini dress like this, or pants like these. Alex Mill’s blue version feels most evergreen (call it the Bill Cunningham effect, made sticky by The Row), but when spring comes around and you want to wear color, khaki is the best color top coat to soften the rest of the vibrancy. If that doesn’t matter to you, I get it! —

Alex Mill jacket, Chava Studio plaid shirt, Prada satin skirt, Proenza Schouler sandals

If you are going with blue, the adjustable hem on nylon jacket no. 1 feels more fresh for the season. Feign a suit with these pants!

Evening

I don’t think you need an evening spring jacket that is different from any of the above (and does drive home the case for a trench like this), but if it’s something you’re thinking about, or a category that appeals to you, I have been wearing a cashmere house coat, made in Morocco, from Folkloore, under the slinkies and the silks and basic pairings (see: turtleneck and shorts) I’ve been drawn to —

Skall t-neck, Ciao Lucia shorts, the shoe alt

It’s like a security blanket over a small risk. But you know the other thing you could do is take a jacket you wear as part of the outfit through the winter and just use it as the overlayer — kind of like this:

The gold shirt (Attersee)/velvet pant (Chloe) pairing was a recommendation from none other than Becky M.

In sum, your best bet for spring jacket fall into four categories:

1. trench coat (single breast; could be cotton, could be satin, could be nylon)

2. field jacket (with an emphasis on blue)

3. anorak (or in the case of Alex Mill, windbreaker)

4. leather or suede shirt jacket

   1. Or the portmanteau of anorak and shirt jacket, as seen in this Rohe number

This doesn’t mean there aren’t other great options out there, but as far as I can tell, these will be the most versatile ones. In particular for a wardrobe that is full of jeans, button downs, t-shirts and the occasional lunatic sequined shorts or tiny, silk dress.

I’m going away next week, so nothing new until April. See ya then,

Leandra