What makes a pair of loafers good?

A neurotic breakdown

Loafers are fall wardrobe cannon. They’re comfortable, they’re flattering, they pair well with virtually any bottom, of any material: jeans, trousers, shorts, dresses, skirts (short, long, short and long): cotton, wool, jacquard, silk. You name it, they can do it. But for this to stay true — for the shoes to complement the sum of your bottoms, you’ve to get the fit right. So, what makes a pair good?

Aflalo button down shirt, Tory Burch croc skirt (the closest comp at market is this one from Toteme, lest you’re down to try her), Tod’s ‘Gommino’ loafers

Khaite sunglasses, bag and belt. Jewelry is me for Aflalo. We are down to our last Greek Key! Will she be yours?

Shape

• Consider the vamp: The top of the shoe can’t be so high that it cuts you off at the wrong place ahead of or behind your front ankle bone. You want to Goldilocks it and find the right spot between high and low vamp. (These from Gianvito Rossi are a good reference for “just right.” — Masculine enough that it’s clear you’re in a loafer, refined enough that you’re not unintentionally clunking around.) These from Emme Parsons are what I own, and they serve the same purpose.

  

  Emme Parsons loafers, I like this sequined bag from Chan Luu as an alt to the Fendi one pictured.

  

  Skims bra, here is a comparable brown belt (this is the pictured one in taupe suede from Kallmeyer; very into this from BMB too), Soeur silk skirt (she’s 50% off). A necklace for you here

• Consider the toe: Not too round, not square, not too narrow of an almond-shape. Keep in mind we’re talking about an every-day-er, so any of the above could be great as secondary loafers, they just won’t be the one-and-done. I like the toe on these from Louboutin (very similar to G.H Bass’s iconic unisex Weejun on one hand, Miu Miu’s penny hit on the other). They embody the subtle spirit of a classic men’s penny loafer — and paired with something fitted (and minimalist), they anchor the clothes.

  

  Khaite bodysuit (this OTS top from DL1961 is my preferred alt. Next alt is last week’s Fleur du Mal but in black), Dehanche belt, Kallmeyer capri pants (try these), Louboutin loafers

  

  It’s not so easy to find a solid pair of navy suede loafers, these (no penny) from Manolo Blahnik are the most luxurious alternative (I will say I prefer them with the penny). These from Stuart Weitzman may be a little too wide at the toe, but you can drop a coin through the slit et voila. Then these from Ralph Lauren ($195) are the most feminine. There is also always the Weejun but warning: they will cut the shit out of your feet on the path to broken in

  They do the same for a different reason with something wackier too.

  

  Aflalo’s ‘Affine’ coat is back baby. Styled with a Paco Rabanne cropped tee, Saint Art brocade surf shorts (I like these from The Garment as a subtle alt) and the same Louboutin loafers.

  

  Shorts would be great with a shrunken suede jacket too. Dropping in the linked Garment shorts one more time

• When I’m dressed in an outfit that reads either more masculine (suit, relaxed fit jeans) or includes a structured silhouette, like a fitted collared jacket —

  

  Kallmeyer jacket, Scanlan Theodore silk top, (this could be a good alt jacket while we’re on Scanlan’s site) By Malene Birger belt, Miu Miu neoprene shorts (+ the alt)

  I want a toe that’s more narrow. Something akin to these from Bougeotte. (M. Gemi has a pair that is similar.)

  

  Khaite bag, Bougeotte loafers (which also come in navy suede, btw). The sunglasses are from Soeur

  A surprising but happy balance between the two is Tod’s classic Gommino (pictured at the very top, more like a moccasin) which bring me to:

Material

I’m betting on suede or patent leather as the best finishes for the upcoming season. Both make your outfits look richer, but in different ways. But how do you know which material is best for you?