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Mar 8, 2023Liked by Leandra Medine Cohen

The coverage of fashion week was my favorite part of Man Repeller. Loved this reflection so much.

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I love that you still love the shows! You are a true lovers of fashion. I really don’t care anymore. I just occasionally go “nice Loewe trench” or “lovely long Chloe dress” like I did while reading the piece. I never thought I’d say that! Turns out I’m not the fan I thought it was (more specifically - I love style, but not fashion, diff things I think)

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Leandra thank you for this. This is the fashion coverage I want and needed.

Regarding the media and how we consume and consumed fashion through it, I remember reading Vogue cover to cover from the late 1990s to the early 2000s. I must have really savored it. Back then us not fashion people who were interested in fashion really just read Vogue and W (I guess? We’re there other cooler mags probably) and the images and words seemed to really soak in probably because of the age I was but also because there was no infinite scroll. And as I’d remember there’s be the photos from the collections at the front of the book (sometimes at the back? In index?), obviously just a selection of looks of course that someone had put together to illustrate a trend or a point.

Now of course anyone of us can see all the looks, which is great. But as with all other information in this age, it’s so much noisier too.

Certain vibes and images were firmly imprinted on my teenaged mind. Briefly, two because why not

- the green shirt Gwyneth wore in a Great Expectations, unbuttoned

- this cover with the wife-beaters and ball skirts (https://archive.vogue.com/issue/19990401 - yes I had fun googling that and also i only had to go through two years of covers to find it - eerie)

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I've been doing barrell-ish jeans with sheer black tights, a black belt, and black knit. For shoes: either pointy black flats or pointy black patent kitten heels. Black leather bag in crook of elbow or carried (not slung over shoulder). Minimal make-up, big gold earrings, and black sun glasses, sci-fi vibe. PS: I used to subscribe to a rather cool philosophy guy on Substack. But recently I thought, enough of that. The Cereal Aisle is likely to be far more engaging and thought-provoking. 'Really pleased to have subscribed! Going to put on my pointy shoes and gold crocodile earrings right now. xoxoxo

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If you wrote to a fashion magazine I would buy that magazine. I stopped consuming fashion magazines, especially because I felt disconnected to the discourse. Either too editorial or too commercial and “fashionless”.

On the editorial aspect of it I must highlight the JPG Haute Couture with a surprising Haider Ackerman taking the wheel (I know less feminine to your recent stream). The others I followed through social media and to the extent to what stylenot and alike shared. I’m on board on the BV, not so much on Chloe.

What I agree with you in a certain extent (because I’m still trying to understand my feeling on this) is about the shifts of positions between houses, their creatives and the maintenance of their heritages, I have a hard time following them. I don’t think a change is happening, but a change is in the process, it takes way more turns around the sun and generations to actually say things have changed. I prefer to call this shifts. And I totally agree with you on the read of change within oneself. It hardly happens, to the point of deleting previous status. Different aspects of one’s essence takes lead from phase to phase.

And that is the main feeling I have. There are quite approachable ideas, loved the Miumiu for that (the most symptomatic of the bland or blended times we are in) will give another look to Chanel, to reread your view or confirm my distancing from it. Loewe but especially Off White was so inspiring. Winds from other parts of the world on the last one.

Usually I’m not that into the bigger players scene but even LV pleated jackets and a very Dries Van Noten look caught my eye. Valentino was always a favourite too, since a kid, and despite I’m not that keen with the recent shows, must reckon the consistency. The ties really made the masculin-feminin balance well.

Thoughts on Courrèges and Pierre Cardin?

I also felt that the main subject of the overall ideas for the next FW are birds (feathers, tails, corpete, pinguim shoes). And carpeted floor runways.

As you, waiting on Phoebe.

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