Subtle outfit makers

Still on the theme of incurring a light lift as opposed to a heavy lift when it comes to getting dressed, there are a few outfit makers that have facilitated my wearing variations on the same thing over again without feeling the same or over the top.

Some of the below makers are whimsical (a tassel), with others mind-numbingly casual (Ugg-ish boots), but all of them afford whatever I’m wearing a sharp edge you’ll want to poke. Which is a good thing!

The easiest one has got to be the first one, which is:

1. Tassels

I got a great pin from the recent Merci C’est Vintage-curated pop up in New York (referenced as the brand discovery incubator in Friday’s letter), which makes a simple black jacket much more regal.

Here’s a good comp on the cropped black jacket (with collar), or here’s one more. It’s styled with the same Khaite tux pants from last week’s episode (I’d use these tapered pants the same way; or a more casual, warmer option from By Malene Birger could be these) and Polo RL boots. The bag is also Khaite, who does suede better than anyone I can think of; it’s old, but you can usually find a few loitering around on TRR

It also facilitates easy wearing with a template akin to the above rendition on a horse rider’s uniform but specifically as it relates to the tassel: I’ve been into them for a while, citing the belts and necklaces of Sundial as primo examples, and suspect this impulse will last longer than the holiday season because I think it reflects a broader shift in taste and style towards the more maximal. In particular as it relates to like, renaissance-era furniture, or, idk, Alessandro Michele’s Valentino emergence.

Dropping this vintage Ungaro tassel pin in here. The sunglasses are St. Agni

2. These cargo pants

How much longer do you think I have with them? Have worn them at least 3 times a week since I got them in August and have tried to break down what makes them so good. I think it’s mostly about how good of a foil they are to unlikely top parts like a whimsical top or wild jacket.

Or maybe a portmanteau of both? Bode jacket (here’s the possible seasonal equivalent, more realistically this one on sale will get you further), Chava plaid shirt (it’s gone, but the print on this one from Uniqlo is not incorrect!), Alex Mill cargos, Emme Parsons’ ‘Danielle’ loafers and here’s a little vintage makeup compact/minaudiere, you would be surprised at the way it too can be an outfit (and statement, see: “I hate my phone!”) maker

Basically anything that is short or that has an open hem (have also worn it with this top and the above jacket, and a black base layer t-neck w this sweater, for example).

(It’s this Me + Em sweater; I like this color way more)

As far as the jacket/coat, and in particular when it’s “part of the outfit” (another way, I guess, to say the outfit maker), the pants’ straightforwardness is also what makes them such a no-brainer choice. Maybe classic Carhartts are the next best thing (for the cold), or these look great if you’re under 5’5 (see: length) but before I fall too deep down this rabbit hole, let me say this has been a good segue because the next thing is:

3. Interesting outerwear

I have surrendered myself to the reality that it’s the only expression I actually make when it’s cold. I’m out more than I’m in (unless I’m home, in which case, cozy-ville) and how it interacts with my pants/shoes is therefore more important than what’s inside of it (my sweater). On the one hand, this is relieving bc, as mentioned Fri, it takes a lot of pressure off the clothes (just wear the same thing, over and over) but on the other I could be easily deluded into thinking I I need many coats. What happens around the coat could well be the outfit maker —

Splendid black t-neck (recently got this one from Frances de Lourdes too; it’s really good), Kallmeyer fringe jacket (here’s Massimo Dutti’s version), Khaite belt, Callas Milano pants (gonna try these ones too), Polo RL sneakers, Rue de Verneuil tote and Pardo hat

but occasionally, there’s a piece that’ll stop you short. I got this jacket because I’ve been thinking that I want some funk — to look a little freaky but in subtle or less characteristic ways.

Here she is, styled with a turtleneck from Skall Studio, Giuliva Heritage ‘Laura’ trousers and The Row sandals (also great!). Plus the silver mini bag and a straw tote (I’d go for this one and cut the tassel thing off)

Dries van Noten is a master of fusing the fanciful in practical, grounded ways with the somewhat twisted stylistic tendencies that many of us have but which we tend not to take seriously.

One more time with Polo sneakers and similarly Dries pants

Was sure I’d probably send it back. Turns out it makes wearing a basic outfit feel indulgent, but to the above point re: your look probably needing just a belt or hat (or both) refresh to make you come alive, next thing is:

4. The right beanie

This is a two-for-one because there is no definitive “right” beanie. You can go very classic with it to generate an extremely familiar look like this:

Fforme cap (I have an alt for you), Heirlome coat (this one from Sporty & Rich intrigues me too), Splendid turtleneck, Jujuvera choker (this really makes that feel like a deal, huh), Khaite jeans and boots. Sunglasses are from my collab w Delarge

But I can argue for something crochet like the two-photos-up striped Pardo beanie, in particular if your outerwear = a plain black coat (see also). Then again though, because of the swim cap trend, it says a lot without actually saying much, and in fact might incline you to take a small stakes risk, something like:

Red socks and blue shoes (maybe you’ll try w these from The Row @ 45% off?). Styled here with Attersee pants, a Bevza overhead jacket thing and a NoName cashmere sweater around my waist

Earns a triple whammy because it’s also super warm, super practical, and super gives you permission to wear something boring (above) but feel pretty interesting, or just the opposite —

Something wild n crazy! St. John jacket and underwear set (unrelated, but this is a good deal), Swedish Stockings tights, Manolo Blahnik ballet flats

It totally relaxes an unhinged outfit. If you are really getting in the spirit though, I might suggest the reverse: a sequined beanie, with a relatively chill outfit:

Frances de Lourdes grandpa cardigan, Callas Milano pants, Chanel moccasins (here’s a more loafer-y expression in patent leather and these are great brogues); the hat is Margiela. I got it last year at the end of season SSENSE sale after seeing it on a subscriber at a Cereal Aisle meet up (hi Denise!). This year, she found this one

It’s the combo of white poplin (Bode shorts) and ivory silk against the camel leather boots that ground the beanie/help the fleece jacket (Colleen Allen) pop

Glad there’s a turtleneck present in a few of the expressions above because the next thing is that I’ve been wearing one under basically everything. This is a two-for-one surge-landing because the impulse is informed almost entirely by my desire to:

(1): let the jewelry be the whole outfit.

Can’t say enough about these Jujuvera necklaces (in particular like them over wooly knits — they really are the whole outfit in the best possible way) but re the disengagement ring on my pinky, it’s a lab-grown stone from Alexei Hay’s new thing

Skall t-neck again, with a vintage collar (here’s a great, plated one for your viewing pleasure; I actually don’t like them against bare skin, they are particularly suited to, uh, suit up a casual t-neck in my opinion)

(2): let the coat be the whole outfit.

Wearing no pants! Here’s a sim. coat, same turtleneck as the above black Splendid but in white; here’s a similar sweater

You want a base layer turtleneck to accomplish this. With the color range mostly spanning dark for the jewelry piece of it (think of it like a blank canvas), where whites and ivories might make more sense for the anterior impulse (coat-as-outfit). Something either cotton or knit with an emphasis on a tissue-knit because they’re warmer this way.

Some good ones I’ve recently encountered include this from Alex Mill and these from Quince. This sheer one from Frances de Lourdes is really good too, but also specific. You have to like looking a little naked.

6. Texture

I’ve been playing with texture to create unlikely dynamics that aren’t as straight-foward or loud as colors/prints that blind you. The vibe is more like:

Cos cotton jacket (potentially better option for rn), Polo Ralph Lauren silk button down shirt (under the jacket; mine’s a sz. 4), Casasola sweater over shoulders, Rodebjer pants (calling these a strong alt), Chylak Heritage shawl styled over front half

A knit over the shoulders of a cotton jacket or coat (figure a trench), with trousers if your choice (could be wool, could be viscose, I wouldn’t recommend denim necessarily unless your coat was nylon), leather or suede shoes (canvas if your pants are leather) and something around your waist — maybe another shirt, maybe a silk scarf, maybe a crochet apron or shawl.

If you are after a counter-fabric winter bag that does the same thing, I suggest this — feels more like a bag, or this if you’re after ~that Row look.~ The boots are from Co

This is the best way in my experience to recycle past season hits and genuinely feel dressed anew without actually being dressed in anything that is new. Also why focusing on style tendencies affords you more agency and flexibility than focusing on actual garments.

The waist flair relates to the next impulse which is to:

7. Put a shirt around your waist

Here, the shirt functions like a skirt or a peplum that serves a few purposes in that it:

Toteme leather coat (this one from Massimo Dutti is it, but I think I prefer the suede — to style with this hat!), Ulla Johnson gold top, Chava plaid shirt around waist, Aflalo ‘Bradum’ pants, Jamie Haller moccasins, Loro Piana lampshade hat (this one from Soeur is great, so is this one from Massimo Dutti)

• Hides bulky or uncomfortable or bad-looking waist lines

• Could serve as a belt, either holding your pants up (if wearing tie low) or cinching your waist (if higher)

• Adds flair

• Also good if you like the pants, but hate how they make your ass look.

Try a canvas lampshade (bucket hat) if you have one, forget the sequins if you want, style with a sweater instead and the texture play will be great

Fair game re: material of shirt tied around waist here. You can use what you have but I will say that it’s worth trying a less expected one. I’m more interested in surprising textures, for example, like flannel or crochet or linen.

The play out of this expression is holiday season adjacent what with the sequined top but you do want something open hem and heavier weighted (like jacquard or rigid poplin or thick wool) if you’re going the peplum route. If you’re using the shirt more like a cinching belt, let the record state that a sweater is fair game too.

We’ve approached the final outfit maker!

8. Uggs

This one is the most personally surprising because I can’t believe this is what I’m after these days but Ugg-style shoes are feeling strangely good assembled into more formal outfits. I don’t mean fancy-fancy, more like what you’d wear when you’re getting dressed to be presentable:

Here’s a navy pair, for example, from the danish brand Babbi Shoes (who also makes Lolo Ballerinas), styled with Aflalo’s ‘Bradum’ pants and a vintage sequined jacket

The hem tuck is essential to make this super weird

But tbh, they’re good with a chill look too. They give good slouch on jeans:

This one integrates a little bit of everything from the above, huh. Roseanna jacket, Casasola sweater, Babbi slipper shoes, Savette bag

And these jeans are Rouje’s ‘Germain’ cut.

Okay, that’s it from me. Have a great week,

Leandra