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I think the everyday/ utilitarian has played a part in the trend cycle for decades: classic Levi 501s, Reeboks, Hanes t-shirts, Gap Oxfords, Weejuns to name a few. I agree it’s an influence of American sport/ mall culture but I think it’s been a mainstay since the early 90s, possibly earlier

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So true. And the glorification of that had a lot to do with Marc Jacobs contribution

Putting this piece together actually took a lot out of me because it didn’t seem complete or entirely on point. I think your comment is partially why but also that towards the end is really where the story starts. If fashion is born from fantasy, how does that thread sustain itself through the overwhelming focus on practicality/realism? even if the way it appeals to a consumer is so rarely actually fantastical !

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I think there could be status in feeling fashionable .....

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I totally agree with your thoughts today . I think fantasy will prevail in fashion as it should .... but I do love when a Birkenstock or sneaker that many can purchase becomes fashionable ... it's playful and it makes fashion accessible . There is a bit more freedom for more people to participate. You can buy a white sneaker from the row or a superga .....win win

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Indeed, a certain feeling of inclusion or belonging rather than status?! Could this be?

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Yes, everyone wants to belong, it makes sense.

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We crave individuality and yet we want always to be/feel like part of something.

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Isn't it funny? I think we have a need to feel unique and special too. At least I do. My book club is a place where I feel unique in how I dress, different than other members. But I still belong.

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The acceptance from the other plays a significant role, despite we want to believe otherwise. I think it takes a specific kind of personality and character to not acknowledge the others in how they present themselves, it is part of a communication “system” to read the other by the body language, clothes included, it is ancestral I think. Before it was considered an art form it was a way to establish status, if I’m explaining it correctly.

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You explained it great. Style is a way to show people in the group some of your personality tendencies. People that don't care at all about what they are wearing send a signal, just as very fashionable people send a signal. I have always wanted to be seen as fashionable but my own style overrides it. It's not blatant, just different from what society expects of a 60 year old. My style goes exactly with my personality.

How about you, are you fashionable?

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Love this point of view. I also feel out of the loop on Samba sneakers, even though I am pretty sure I have a pair. I may or may not have a shoe addiction/obsession. Do you think also it might have to do with going back to a comfort zone of sorts? In my recent bout of nostalgia, I found myself buying things that I used to like as a child/teen/young adult like Dickies, railroad stripes, certain brands, etc for almost a grounding point as we transition and grow through life. There are a lot of beginnings and endings happening and when there are a lot of changes going on it is natural to reach for something tried and true that you know. Like a fluffy robe and slippers at the end of a busy day. I do agree with Pheobe that a 90's revival has been in the works for quite a while, including the comeback of cargo pants which always remind me of Jennifer Aniston. I still can not get Kate Moss at the Botegga Veneta show out of my mind.

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Oh yeah, nostalgia. I am SO nostalgic about people, places and things. I bought Loves's Baby Soft awhile back, it smelled awful but I remember how happy it used to make me.

How are you doing with your transitions, Gigi?

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It sneaks up on you! Just a point, as I find random things unpacking, packing, de-cluterring (etc) that can make you reminisce. It's always just one endless transition isn't it? I have not worn Dickies in 20 years and now I have 3 pairs. 🤦 I guess they are my version of cargo pants. Listening to old music along with finding photos and what not can also be fun and bring up nostalgia. There is something about scents though right? I am so sorry it did not smell as good as you expected! There is a Pomegranate scent/candle from Jo Malone that makes me feel so comforted. I just recently bought one and it made me happy too. Rose or Bergamot are my long time tried and true scents though that Pomegranate one is definitely nostalgic in the best way. My apologies if my venting came across as any other way than just explaining my experiences with grief generically. I just know going through these things can sometimes feel like you could have done better/differently or not get enough credit for doing them right, etc. Hope you are doing well as well. All the love. xx

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Hi! I can totally relate to this, but I think I am at the other end of the spectrum. I am just at the point, in my early 40's, where I am seeing things I wore come around again. Certainly, the current '90's revival has been nostalgic for me. I had Samba's at one point, but of course they were worn in a different spirit then (it was baggy t-shirts and Umbro shorts - very soccer specific). I find that I cannot separate the nostalgic item from the style it was a part of in my past, and I am consequently unable to embrace it the second time around. I can look at Sambas, and agree that they look cute, but I can't bring myself to want to wear them again. So far, it has not mattered what the item is. I was recently looking through some pictures from my early 20's, and suddenly I just had to have the Seven jeans with the sunburst pocket. I found them on ebay for a song, and had them tailored the exact way I wore them back then...and I have yet to wear them. The passage of time is a hard thing for the mind to come to grips with, especially when you start to realize that you are now mature enough to have a fair amount of past behind you. Our personal style is very closely tied to who we were and now are, so the mingling of past and present in fashion becomes much more than just a shoe, doesn't it?

Totally on board with scents and songs being very powerful in bringing up the past!

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Hello! You have totally inspired me. Speaking of baggy tees and umbro shorts-I feel very drawn to this silhouette and you have inspired me to play with a baggy pair of leather shorts I have, a boxy oversized tee and an old school pair of sneaks. Accessorize with metals for modernity.

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That outfit sounds really cute, you will look adorable I am sure! Have fun with it.

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I'm so glad!!! You're going to look great!

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Inspiring people from across the globe! What a community. Speaking of- I am new here and read somewhere that there is a discussion channel/app- do you know about this? x

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I could have written this.

First, you need to wear the jeans, it would be fun for you and I bet they would look great.

Second, the entire 90s come back has been very nostalgic for me too. I am older than you, so I was in my 30's and really had fun with the slip dresses, cardigans and Doc Martens. I really love streamlined clothes so it has continued for me. I'm not going to go all crop top, but I do like high-waisted pants with a shorter shirt.

I always use fashion to feel good and have fun with it. Like you said, it's intertwining the past and present, just like our lives in general.

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Love a boxy tee and inspiration! 💛

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Yes! I believe the streamlined, minimal aesthetic of the '90's is in my dna now. And thanks for the pep-talk. I will pull out those jeans tomorrow.

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Yay, we want a picture! ♥️

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I am going through this weird phase of turning forty in a couple of weeks and have somehow Benjamin Buttoned to feeling, looking, and sounding much younger. Not complaining, just a mind bender. On that note, I somehow missed the Samba sneaker craze of the 90's, for me it was and will always be Converse. I have other Adidas I favor more than them as well. I do relate to you wholeheartedly about the Seven jeans with the sunburst pocket. There is something about them! I bought a new pair last year too. 😊 In regards to nostalgia, I think it is a very important tool in learning to let go, or reinvent the wheel, so you can go on to the next phase in life. Different from identity, though sometimes it is important to keep some of those identifying and comforting things as we move forward. Time is a funny thing for me, though I think that's just what happens when we get older, right? In regards to fashion, I think it will always be the past trickling in for inspiration, I feel drawn to the mod and 80's teen looks as of late, and having those key items from your own personal past as part of your identity is the whole point, or at least part of it.

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Reminiscing is fun, and scents can bring a out long forgotten feelings. I love that.

Jo Malone scents are wonderful. I have a bunch but not the pomegranate, I will try that.

No apology needed in any way, I liked the conversation we had about grief. It is always right there for me even though I try to push it away with shopping and other things. It will come out more soon, my mind always needs processing time.

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Can't go wrong with anything Jo Malone! I came across that scent from a gift by an old friend, and wore it for a while so it will always have fond memories. Yes, nice to reminisce and be reminded of positive things.

Oh good, I like our conversation about grief as well. Just didn't want you to think it was bigger than it seemed. You are healing! It comes in phases and feeling the feelings is the way through it. I know you know that. There is no rush to the process.

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Thank you for this, your kind words have helped me the last couple of weeks.

I received a candle in my FabFitFun box that smells exactly like my parents house, I love to smell it. ♥️

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That makes me so happy to hear. Thank you for letting me know! That's wonderful about the candle, it sounds lovely. I love those subscription boxes, even if you pick some of the items, they always throw in a few things as a surprise and always feels like a treat to get.

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Take Dickies or Carhart. They were in no way fashionable, and then they were. How does it happen? What makes something be deemed fashionable? When it becomes a trend it's fashionable? It's a bit confusing to me.

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I mean utilitarianism, sorry I know this piece isn’t about the classics per se

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Yes, MJ! And also Brooke Shields, she’s 80s right. I think fashion will always have fantasy and classicism. Look at it right now: a Y2K revival versus The Row. Both equally popular, some w the same people!

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Your last paragraph got me thinking and wondering about cultural movements

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Tell me more

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Your exchange with Pandora is a great illustration of what I was thinking. I risk adding that fashion sustains itself in the fantasy or the realities of society, of social movements, their cultural expressions and resultant aesthetics. The venn graphic is quite liquid era by era. Solving and solving to the point that fantasy and reality have little to no contours in between...

The sneakers effect for me resembles the same effect that music and DJs had in late 20th century with fashion (shows), they walked hand in hand.

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You know what? I think there could be another piece in here about how status signaling has changed. That really seems to be a key feature of non fashion shoes becoming fashion, because designer footwear/bags are often perceived as the entry point into brand. And the easiest way to show to your compatriots that you’re in the know. We still do that in all sorts of ways but it’s a less expensive upfront investment to accomplish what you set out to show

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Yes I think it really leads to those terms easily. Accessories are in fact that gateway of status perception and probably leaving style to be the distant relative of this “family” group

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