Every time I think about trends and how they change, who is making what, and who is wearing what, I come back to Phoebe Philo. Her influence was enormous. It’s like every garment that was spun through the 2010’s was reactive to her work at Celine; in some instances as a tribute and in others a rebellion but still on the wave-length she set.
The thing that finally made me "break" my dry January, week 3, was finding 2 Phoebe runway pieces while "just browsing" the Real Real. I'm WOW over what you're saying, because I 100% love newness (my first purchase post-dry were rubber Prada fisherman's sandals) and yet I see Old Phoebe as part of that newness still. I can look at any one of her runway shows and still feel inspired and exhilarated. Because unlike so many others - there are IDEAS in her collections where others that are just clothes. Ideas that make me gasp still. And the other place I find ideas (hmmm) is in work of her disciple -- New Bottega (I assume it will continue without Daniel...?). But there, the ideas are in the accessories more than the clothes for me. Just taking the codes and blowing them up felt so wow, making ugly-beauty. I feel it also in the Miuccia - Raf collections. Jil Sander. But less magical. I am not one of those people who hangs onto the past (I wish - I'd spend less!) and yet to me old Celine still represents craving "new" -- new ideas, new ways of thinking + wearing. When I feel over it all, my senses come back to life in these pieces.
i think this is right on the money. theres this perfect fusion of desire and execution about old celine, the craving of the new ideas that stay timeless because they're never so literal, they remain in the abstract and then how they're delivered (the execution). and the ideas are so strong because they're more representative than anything else that their energy carries its own weight to such a degree of magnitude that it can in fact even connect you to the other wearers. COMMUNITY BUILDING AT ITS FINEST.
not really though, as a completely aside i have been thinking a ton about belief/higher powers (a strong sense of family included!) lately and what submission to their presence/rejection of their concepts have done and can do to/for us culturally.
This complements the Leandra text so well. I recall a brand starting this newness but with being more clothes than ideas as you say - Filippa K- around 2000’s probably(?!) and got stuck by the reachable sense of fashion that at the time I only new in Calvin Klein, Maxmara weekend or maxmara, or Hermes sometimes, and of course out of my wallet radar. And yes she uses so well the accessories, they do create the rough edges (Leandra’s quest I think, rightly so) so significant to elevate a person's style. Loved your comment.
I miss this caliber of fashion writing so much. Thank you.
Thanks for being here! Genuinely reinforcing.
Have this funny Feeling Phoebe is gonna announce her re arrival very soon
The thing that finally made me "break" my dry January, week 3, was finding 2 Phoebe runway pieces while "just browsing" the Real Real. I'm WOW over what you're saying, because I 100% love newness (my first purchase post-dry were rubber Prada fisherman's sandals) and yet I see Old Phoebe as part of that newness still. I can look at any one of her runway shows and still feel inspired and exhilarated. Because unlike so many others - there are IDEAS in her collections where others that are just clothes. Ideas that make me gasp still. And the other place I find ideas (hmmm) is in work of her disciple -- New Bottega (I assume it will continue without Daniel...?). But there, the ideas are in the accessories more than the clothes for me. Just taking the codes and blowing them up felt so wow, making ugly-beauty. I feel it also in the Miuccia - Raf collections. Jil Sander. But less magical. I am not one of those people who hangs onto the past (I wish - I'd spend less!) and yet to me old Celine still represents craving "new" -- new ideas, new ways of thinking + wearing. When I feel over it all, my senses come back to life in these pieces.
i think this is right on the money. theres this perfect fusion of desire and execution about old celine, the craving of the new ideas that stay timeless because they're never so literal, they remain in the abstract and then how they're delivered (the execution). and the ideas are so strong because they're more representative than anything else that their energy carries its own weight to such a degree of magnitude that it can in fact even connect you to the other wearers. COMMUNITY BUILDING AT ITS FINEST.
not really though, as a completely aside i have been thinking a ton about belief/higher powers (a strong sense of family included!) lately and what submission to their presence/rejection of their concepts have done and can do to/for us culturally.
This complements the Leandra text so well. I recall a brand starting this newness but with being more clothes than ideas as you say - Filippa K- around 2000’s probably(?!) and got stuck by the reachable sense of fashion that at the time I only new in Calvin Klein, Maxmara weekend or maxmara, or Hermes sometimes, and of course out of my wallet radar. And yes she uses so well the accessories, they do create the rough edges (Leandra’s quest I think, rightly so) so significant to elevate a person's style. Loved your comment.
I love this - forgive the delay; was moving to Miami (talk about a style shift). The craving for rough edges! YESSSS. xo
Big move I can imagine. Best of luck 💫
Loved
❤️
I’m speachless. 🔝